Wednesday, September 26, 2012

Utility Pants, Herringbone Twill

 A few changes to this version, as per request.  Western style belt loops, copper tack button, and copper rivets.  The copper is awfully bright, but will begin to tarnish after some wear.

Fabric is a great olive drab herringbone twill.  It's a reproduction of military fabric produced during WWII.  I want to make everything out of it, but it's a little pricey, about 3x's more than the nice Cone Mills selvedge denim.

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Utility Pants, test

 These are loosely based on army and navy utility pants, with some other inspiration from early 1900's waist overalls.

A few pattern design issues, but nothing that can't be fixed - you can see where it gets real wrinkly around the back, that was not fun to sew.  Suspender buttons are too close as well, just little stuff like that.  Also need to adjust my serger, it's breaking thread where several seams come together which looks pretty bad.

13oz denim from Cone Mills for the test pair.  It's a 2x1 weave which is what is often used for work pants and coats.  Sail cloth lined waist.  Double needle felled outseam, single-needle tailoring.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Chore Coat, Cone Mills Denim, revision

 Second version, slightly altered: no wool, slightly straightened collar, front band straightened and with exposed selvedge, hidden selvedge in all pockets, and a little more curve at the hem. Material is a little heavier too at 13oz.  Some of the changes were good, others not so much, and others are still needed.

Sunday, September 16, 2012

Chore Coat, Cone Mills Denim, test 1

This is the third chore coat design I've made for the Slowboat project, and I'm pretty happy with the way this one came out.  I tried a few different pattern making techniques that I haven't done before,  and most of them worked.  Some unusual selvedge details too, but I'll probably skip them next time.

Did have a few seaming issues, but should be able to fix that when I get time to work on one of the machines.

Materials:  12oz Cone Mills selvedge denim, 100% wool collar and cuff lining, copper tack buttons (soaked in vinegar for a week).

Cotton Sweepers, 1908

Thursday, September 13, 2012

Tab collar workshirt, black dobby chambray

 Revision of the previous tab collar work shirt for the Slowboat project.  Slightly smaller collar and a few other little things.  No hem gusset this time.

Fabric is a 4oz dobby weave chambray.  Corozo buttons.  Single-needle construction and tailoring.

I think it's the last time I'll hand fell seams on a shirt for a while, it's just to time consuming.  Also need to find some thread with better stitch definition.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Slowboat Deadstock

 Hey folks, check out the Slowboat Deadstock tumblr page.  They're creating a sort of chronicle of the inspiration and material reality surrounding our collaborating.

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Indigo Duck Field Vest

 Second version of this vest, also for the Slowboat project.  This time using 12oz indigo chambray duck cloth.  Pattern increased in chest size and slightly changed to accommodate the different dimensions.

CCC, 1935

Check out this article from the Forest Army blog if you're interested in why most of the CCC photo's you find don't have African-American folks in them. 

Monday, September 3, 2012

A. P. Preserves

Walking in the neighborhood the other day we came across a pear tree dropping a lot of fruit.  I brought a bag just in case we ran into something tasty, so we picked up a few pounds worth.  Also went past the apricot tree and picked up what was left.  Made apricot and pear preserves today.  Named it "A. P." partially in reference to A. P. Carter of the great country pioneer's, the Carter Family.

I'm told we're getting on toward the end of foraging season here in the Southern Appalachians.  That is too bad; I'm only just learning what's out there.  But I did see some wild grapes recently, and we're going to go pick some apples in a few weeks - so there'll be some fermentation going on soon enough.

Weekend Project: Chippewa Hunting - Engineer Boots, pt. 1

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Duck Cloth Vest, revision

This one's a little bigger in the chest than intended, but I think it'll be okay.  Still having stitching issues though.